Nebbiolo is one of my favourite grapes; hardly surprising
when you think that it produces two of Italy’s most famous and prestigious
wines - Barolo and Barbaresco. If you move further north in Piedmont you find
the wines of Carema and Gattinara, however, if you move eastwards and into the
Lombardy region, just along the border with Switzerland to the shores of Lake
Como, you find the wine Valtellina.
Produced from Nebbiolo, or as it’s locally known
Chiavennasca, the Wine Makers are also allowed to blend in another local
variety, Rossola Nera, with up to 20% for the DOC or 10% for the DOCG wines. However,
restrictions on harvest yields, minimum levels of alcohol, and as the wines
must also be aged for two years prior to being released, unless they are
Riserva which necessitates three years, means it is far from a quick process in
getting the Wine to meet these specific requirements. Within the region there
are several villages who are considered higher quality; Grumello, Sassella, Inferno,
Valgella and Maroggia- these are, of course, indicated on the label. They also
produce an Amarone style DOCG wine called Sforzato.
One of my favourite producers of these wines is Rivetti& Lauro. They produce several wines, including the really quite unique wine
‘Calis’, a white made from Pignola (another name for Nebbiolo) and Sauvignon.
They also have wines from the villages of Sasella and Inferno, and produce the
amazing Sforzato.
The 2012 Inferno DOCG Valtellina is produced in small
quantities; only 3,300 bottles, and is 100% Nebbiolo. Grape selection is done
by hand and they are destemmed before being crushed and subsequently fermented
in Stainless Steel tanks. After the fermentation process, the wine is aged for
two years in French oak barrels.
In the glass, the wine has a bright ruby red/purple colour
to it, with pronounced aromas of Cherry, Vanilla and Clove. These come through
on the palate beautifully and combines with the tannins and acidity perfectly.
It drinks beautifully now and will continue to age and develop for the next ten
years.
The 2011 Sforzato DOCG Valtellina goes through a very
similar process as the other Valtellina DOCG wines, however there is one big
difference; the grapes are dried on big wooden racks for three/ four months
before crushing, in a similar way to Amarone.
The drying of the grapes first adds a real concentration to
the wine, with aromas of red berry fruit, Tobacco and Truffle. On the palate,
the fruit translates to significantly more wild berries with hints of Violets
and Tobacco. Combine this with the fine but grippy tannins, and you have a remarkable
wine that’s big, powerful and rich.